If like many people, you work 40+ hour weeks and only get a set amount of days to travel, you’ll find this guide useful!
There’s no better way to spend the Christmas period going on a new adventure, and what better place is there to get some winter sun than in Patagonia!
If you love rugged nature, the outdoors and wilderness, this trip is a MUST! It sits between both Argentina and Chile, with the Argentine region being the bigger region out of the two.
This post will show you how to maximise your time in Patagonia when you’re short of time. It will focus on the Argentinian side as it’s the one that I actually explored (Chile is next on my hit list!).
Patagonia has had such a rich history with explorers travelling far and wide to reach this dreamy place. It’s a combination of glaciers, forests, fjords and ice fields and to cover it all would take months.
Know before you go
It’s such a vast place that it can be hard to decide which area to pick.
This all depends on what you’d like to see, as they all offer different sites. The tough part is that it all looks equally as stunning as each other, so you’ll have to do some serious compromising here!
It was one of the most challenging trips i’ve had to plan and I was going back and forth on my decisions.
Patagonia is comprised of 6 different regions all quite a distance from each other so planning in advance is highly recommended, especially if you’re limited on time.
The choices can be overwhelming so i’ve narrowed it down for you to give you a sense of what each place offers.
Argentina side
01
Los Glaciers National Park
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this giant ice cap covers 8,400 square miles, extending out across the Andes and into Argentina. Here you'll find the popular Perito Moreno Glacier and the Fitz Roy Massif. There are 356 glaciers and the actual National Park was established in 1937. You'll be able to trek on glaciers, kayak your way down one of the largest rivers, join an expedition to visit the ice caps (usually requires 8-10 days) and marvel at the fresh water lakes. The closest airport is El Calafate, which is a small town and the primary hub for trips to the national parks. Be sure to book your flight way in advance because they're known to either sell out really quickly or get very expensive!
02
Bariloche and The Lake District
This is the perfect place to go out and explore on a road trip. With stunning lakes and lush green scenery, it's a camper's dream and people also come to ski, climb and fish. Other activities include white water rafting, horseback riding and mountain biking. This could be a deal breaker, but Bariloche's finest local product is chocolate!
03
Tierra Del Fuego and Ushuaia
This region is split between Argentina and Chile. It's home to the town of Ushuaia (also nicknamed 'The end of the world') which is the gateway for expeditions to Antarctica. Out of all the regions, this is definitely more inclusive of wildlife over hiking. Here you'll learn about native flora and fauna and you'll be able to spot wildlife from sea lions to penguins. You can also visit Isla Yecapasela (penguin island) by boat, where you can walk amongst colonies of penguins!
Chile side
04
Chilean Patagonia
Just as the name says it, this is the region of Patagonia that is across the border on the Chilean side. You've got the famous Torres Del Paine National park, the towns of Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, the Glacier Tyndall and the Strait of Magellan where you can go penguin watching.
05
Aysen
One of the least populated regions of Patagonia, Aysen is home to Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael where you can explore the marble caves. It's a bit harder to travel around here due to how isolated it is, but it's still highly doable! It runs along the whole southern coast of Chile and is easily accessible by car. Parque Nacional Queulat has great hiking and camping spots whereas Simpson River National reserve is one of the best rivers for fly-fishing. You can also visit the remote cities of Coyhaique and Chaitén
06
Chilean Lake District
Full of landscapes from volcanoes, forests, lakes and rivers, the lake district can be included as part of a road trip down the epic Chilean Southern Highway.
07
Tierra Del Fuego and Cape Horn
This is situated on Hornos island which is off the Chilean side of the Tierra Del Fuego archipelago. It's where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans meet and you can explore this region by boat or by foot. Historically, this used to be a part of a route where sailing ships carried trade around the world and now holds a residence, lighthouse and chapel for the Chilean navy.
When to go to avoid mass tourism
Patagonia’s weather is known to be highly predictable.The high season is between December to March. which is their summer months and the days are extra long, sometimes getting dark around 11pm. Although the sun will be shining, it’s known to get very windy here, so make sure you pack your windbreaker jacket!
The less crowded months are mid November to Mid December, and mid March to late April. Although I went during the Christmas period, which is predicted to be their busiest time, I never once felt that it was too overcrowded and filled with tourists. The town had a good vibe and was never fully packed in any restaurant.
Eco Tip 09: Try to find a reuse + return + deposit bank for glass bottles at home or while you’re travelling
Language
Spanish – But this southern part of Argentina attracts a lot of tourists from around the world so most of the locals speak very good English.
Getting There
Being on the tip of South America, it’s not the easiest place to get to. I caught a direct flight (do this to reduce your CO2 emissions) from London to Buenos Aires, then a 3 hour flight to El Calafate.
You can see the vast beauty of the place before you even land, with views of La Leona river directly beneath you.
I hired a pre-booked car from Hertz via Rentalcars.com to pick up at the airport. Make sure you book this in advance because I saw queues of people wanting to rent one and there were none available.
As soon as I landed I got an instant sense of safety and you could tell you were amongst a hiker community.
The drive was a short 20 minutes into the centre down one main road, driving through grassland and small residential houses.
Bla Lodge - El Calafate
Where To Stay
There are many options for accommodation depending on your budget.
I knew I was going to be out and about a lot so I booked Bla Lodge hostel for a few nights as I wouldn’t be spending much time there.
I paid around US$10 a night and this was in December during high season.
The lodge was roughly a 15 minute walk to the centre, which again felt completely safe. It’s quite a steep walk along some gravel roads and up the hill but you get a rewarded with amazing views over the lake.
All the locals and tourists were super friendly and were always happy to help if I had any questions.
Tip: You can take a taxi to the centre for around 100 pesos but the walking will do you good, especially after a big dinner!
Where To Stay – Sustainable alternative
Ecocamp in Torres Del Paine has been labelled as one of the world’s most sustainable hotels.
It utilises eco friendly practices from composting toilets to biodegradable products.
I didn’t get the chance to stay here because I had planned on camping in the national park so I didn’t have to go back and forth on my route.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to do that either because I wasn’t aware that I had to book a space for camping and by the time I found out it was fully booked!
This came as a blessing in disguise because it was pouring with rain on the day I was meant to go, so the hike wouldn’t have been as enjoyable.
Wondering how to book your Torres Del Paine camping online? Check out Travel Outlandish‘s detailed post!
Try the local Patagonian beer!
El Calafate Town
The main town of El Calafate is a picturesque place with its main road full of restaurants and boutiques. There are a couple of smaller craft markets to explore and you’ll be able to book tours if you haven’t done so in advance. I’d recommend booking tours before you go as they tend to sell out on high season dates or they get more expensive. There are also a couple of lovely bakeries where you can pick up some local chocolates and empanadas for your hike! From the centre you can also take a walk along the lake. The town is lined with pine trees and has a ski resort kind of vibe which I instantly liked. Most of the visitors are walking around in their hiking gear which was also reminiscent of ski resorts where people are walking around in their ski gear! If you want to get a bird’s eye view of the area, go south to the end of the street, cross the creek and climb up the stairs on the hilltop. You’ll get a great view of the whole town.
At the time I was visiting there had been a problem with the pipes and there was no running water which meant I couldn’t have a proper shower for 3 days (baby wipes are a lifesaver!). All the restaurants outside of the centre weren’t able to operate because of this, which led to them being shut down for a few days. Only the big hotels and restaurants in the centre were able to use their emergency water supply to still serve guests.
Places To Eat
Patagonian lamb is their local dish and you’ll see this nearly on all menus at the restaurants in the centre. This dish originated from the days when farming and ranching was a common profession. Traditionally, it’s cooked around an open coal and wood fire pit for around 3 hours, placed on an iron cross in order for the lamb to be stretched out vertically. Most restaurants do also offer vegetarian/vegan dishes so you won’t be out of options.
Hot tip: If you’re on a budget, one of the cheapest things you can buy is wine! Vino is widely produced in Argentina so you’ll find that this will probably be the cheapest item on your bill.
You'll see these this traditional Patagonian lamb cooking method all over El Calafate
General Restaurants
Don Pichon
Mi Viejo
La Lechuza
Los Amigos
Ovejitas de la Patagonia
Casimiro Biguá Parilla & Asador
Vegetarian/Vegan friendly
Alfonsina Cocina Consciente
Estilo Natural (health food store)
Esquina Varela
Pantagonia
Pura Vida
Fuji Sushi Bar
The Good Kind Of Blues...
Perito Moreno Glacier
Chances are, if you’ve thought about visiting Patagonia you’ve seen or heard about Perito Moreno glacier. It’s located within Los Glaciares National Park near El Calafate and is famous for being one of few in the world that is actually advancing.
Fun Facts
It’s massive! It’s the third largest reservoir of natural water in the world and covers an area of roughly 250sqkm.
It’s one of the only glaciers in the world that is still growing and is said to move around 2 metres a day
Los Glaciares National Park (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares) had been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981.
Named after Francisco Moreno, an Argentinian explorer who studied the glacier for years. He also played an important role in protecting and defending Argentina’s territory in the border conflict with Chile.
It is estimated to be 18,000 years old
It began to form during the last ice age which ended around 11,700 years ago
It cuts off the southern arm of Argentino Lake (Argentina's largest freshwater lake) and builds a natural dam which essentially splits the lake. This prevents freshwater from circulating from one side to another, which causes the water on the southern arm to remain a murkier colour.
People patiently gather around the glacier in hope to see it rupture. This happens roughly every 4 to 5 years and occurs when the pressure of the water hits the wall of ice, causing it to break off.
Start Of The Glacier Trek
Getting My Crampons Fitted!
Getting There
There are no local buses to get to the national park so you’ll need to book a shuttle bus. You’ll be able to find the timetables and purchase your tickets from the bus station in El Calafate. Although there are many companies that operate here, the demand is high so it’s recommended to book the tickets at least 1 or 2 days in advance.
Alternatively, you can book a tour that will take you to the park and give you a guided walk around the glacier. This will include pick up and drop off to your accommodation. It usually doesn’t include lunch so make sure you bring some food along with you. There is also a café with toilet facilities at the entrance but it is quite overpriced. The toilets are free to use.
A Much Needed Drink With Fresh Glacier Ice!
One Of The Many Lakes You'll See On Your Trek
Entry Fees
ARS 800 (January 2020) For Foreigners
They have only just started accepting credit cards as of recently. However, the machines do get temperamental so i’d recommend bringing cash to make the payment process easier. There aren’t any ATMs around so you don’t want to get all the way there any not be able to get in!
Look At The Incredible Views Around The Glacier!
Recommended Tour Operator
I booked my tour with Hielo Y Aventura, a tour company based in Argentina with over 30 years experience in ice trekking. They’re also the only tour company that have the license to trek on the ice, therefore if you do book with other tour operators, you’ll end up being on the Hielo Y Aventura tour anyway. They picked me up from my hostel and you can request to either get dropped back there or in the centre. You’re taken to the entrance, where they will organise your tickets purchase for you (not included in the tour price) and you pay on the bus. After a few hours independently exploring the walkways, you’re taken to the port to catch the 20 minute boat ride to the glacier.
The treks are set in different times so there are never too many people on the glacier all at once. The group I was in didn’t have more than 15 people in it, with the guide speaking both English and Spanish. They provide helmets, gloves and crampons and give you a safety briefing when you’re on the ice, instructing you how to walk with the crampons and answer any general questions you may have. The guides were knowledgeable and maintained constant vigilance to keep people safe on the ice.
If you really want to appreciate the sheer size of Perito Moreno, walking on it is the best option! Make sure to bring a refillable bottle to try the water from the glacier, it’s one of the freshest waters i’ve ever tasted!
The Pier To Catch The Boat To Perito Moreno
What to do
Whether you’re travelling independently or with a tour, you’ll most likely stop off at different viewpoints as you’re approaching the glacier.
Walking Around – Many people opt for the walking around the site using the various walkways. It’s very well organised and the wooden walkways are designed in a way that blend into its surroundings. The 5 colour coded routes are clearly marked with a map at the top and these will all give you different views of the glacier from various angles.
Boat Tour– If you’d like to get up close and personal with the glacier, the boat ride offers picturesque sights up to 300 meters of the glacier. It stays near the foot of the glacier for about 20 minutes to gain unique shots from the water.
This can be purchased in advance or at the entrance for 300-400 ARS.
Mini Trekking- If seeing the glacier walls is still not enough, how about walking on it? This is the option I went for and i’d say is a must if you’re visiting the site! You’ll be able to see lakes, seracs and streams you wouldn’t be able to see from the boat and definitely not from the walkways.
Big Ice Trek – This is similar to the mini trekking but longer and more intense. It requires higher fitness levels as it’s a 4 hour hike walking up and down with crampons. As you’re spending the whole day here, you’ll eat lunch in a sheltered area on the ice, then walk to some higher lookout points and visit a ‘cave’ of ice. This is definitely for you hardcore explorers out there! It’s more expensive than the mini trek but from speaking to other visitors that had done it, it’s definitely worth it.
Endless Snow Capped Mountains Views...
El Chaltén
Internationally known as the trekking capital of Patagonia, El Chaltén is a gateway to peaks such as Mount Fitzroy and Cerro Torre.
Getting there
It’s roughly 3 hours drive from El Calafate and is still part of the Los Glaciares National Park. El Chaltén is actually a small town with around 1600 inhabitant, although I was told that no more that 400 people live there year round. You’ll also find restaurants, lodges and camping shops, although everything is quite limited here so i’d recommend buying any food in El Calafate. If you have any questions, you can visit the tourist centre which is clearly sign posted. From here you can pick up a free map, use their toilet facilities and learn a bit about the history.
The Start Of The Hike (And Where You Can Leave Your Car)
The Trek Tends To Get Really Windy So Don't Forget Your Windjacket!
What to do
El Chaltén is all about hiking and you’ll spend most of your time walking through pristine landscapes and towering peaks. If you’re short on time, i’d recommend going on a full day hike on your first day, then fit in an easy/rest day and shorter hikes for the remainder of the days. These can be done either on guided tours or independent tours, whichever is your preference. I did mine independently as I didn’t feel the need for a guide for this one (and it cut costs!).
Couldn't Ask for A Better View Outside My Tent!
Explore All The Different Peaks The National Park Has To Offer!
The Best hikes if you’re short on time
Laguna Torre – Labelled as one of the best hikes in the national park, this trek will lead you to the base of Cerro Torre. You’ll hike amongst gorgeous scenery and ice capped mountains leading up to a glacier fed lake.
Difficulty – Moderate
Duration – 5-7 hours
Sendero Al Fitzroy – This hike provides you with the best views of Monte Fitz Roy. The shape and size of Mount Fitz Roy make it quite the landmark in Argentina, towering an impressive 3,359 meters into the sky. The walk starts off steep but you’ll come across easier parts on plains, and then it’s worth taking a break to re-energise (take some energy bars, fruit, water & plenty of sunscreen) before starting with the great ascent! You’ll be able to find a campsite along the way to set up your tent so you can leave your things and hike with less baggage.
Difficulty – Moderate
Duration – 8-10 hours
Circuit Trail Fitz Roy & Torre – As this is a 2 day trek, on day 1 you can pick up your camping gear, stock up on food at the supermarket and head to Campamento Poincenot to set up your tent. Then you can hike up to the top of the Laguna de Los Tres trail to see the breathtaking views of the mountains. On day 2, you can take several other trails from there or hike the Laguna Torre trail and return to El Chaltén to return your camping gear and stay in town.
Difficulty – Moderate
Duration – 2 days
Capri Lake – A light walk with a great view. Here you’ll be able to see amazing reflections of the mountains over the lake. The views are quite a spectacle with Mount Fitz Roy, the river valley towards El Chaltén and Lake Viedma in the distance. The first 20 minutes of the way up are the most difficult depending on your fitness levels, but after you’ve passed that it gets pretty easy.
Difficulty – Easy
Duration – 2-3 hours
Consider Renting Your Tent Instead Of Carrying Extra Luggage
RENTING YOUR CAMPING GEAR
Rather than carrying unnecessary luggage, consider renting your camping gear from a shop in town so you don’t need to worry about carrying extra weight.
As I was based in El Calafate, I rented mine from La Barraca. They currently don’t have a website but you can email them with any queries before you go. They have a good selection of any camping equipment you may need. Make sure you bring ID with you and a credit card as they will ask for a deposit.
The costs were:
Sleeping bag – 300 ARS per day
Tent – 400 ARS per day
Alternatively, El Chaltén town has several camping shops where you can rent your gear. Check out the El Chaltén resource website to view your options.
Mars Or Earth?
La Leona River Kayak + Petrified Forest Hike
Patagonia is full of amazing hikes but personally, this took the number one spot. You really feel like you’re exploring an unknown world and the landscape looks like you’re on a different planet. The eroded landscape of La Leona petrified forest allows you to discover 70 milllion year old petrified tree trunks, fossils and interesting fauna that is also used for medicinal purposes. The process of petrifaction (also known as petrification) is when an object becomes fossilized over thousands or millons of years, and is preserved as a type of stone by it’s mineral components. Fossil remains are still being discovered in this area and it’s an exciting research ground for archeologists. The largest ever recorded dinosaur, the Argentinosaurus, was discovered in Argentina in the early 1990s. So if you’re into your prehistoric giants like I am, don’t skip this on your itinerary!
The look of petrified wood...looks like wood but it's actually stone!
Hiking Amongst Fossils
Getting there
You can only visit La Leona Petrified Forest on a guided tour because it’s located on private land. I chose to do the kayaking tour because I wanted to get the full experience of being on La Leona river! This is the striking green river you see when you’re flying into El Calafate. The transfer picked me up from my lodge and the guide gave us a briefing about what the tour entailed, some history about the petrified forest and facts about the river. We arrived at Luz Divina Parador where we got into our kayaking wetsuits and were given safety instructions on using the kayak. The journey down the river was roughly 14 kilometres, along the beautiful flow of green waters that originate at Lake Viedma and end at Lake Argentino.
The View Of La Leona River From The Plane!
A Different Way To Explore The River
Recommended Tour Operator
I booked my tour in advance with Kayak Santa Cruz as I saw they had really good reviews online and were one of the only tour operators to hold a license to take visitors to this part of the world. They also offer overnight camping tours which I found out later. If I knew beforehand I would have gone for that option!
You can also opt for a simple transfer to the petrified forest, where you’ll be able to hike instantly without getting wet.
Getting Our Gear On For The Kayak Trip!
The hike
The term ‘forest’ may imply that you will see a whole load of greenery so don’t go there expecting this! It’s a stunning lunar landscape full of interesting shapes and rock formations. The hike lasted around 2hours in total and you walk amongst dinosaur fossils, petrified tree trunks and coral. The whole walk was at an easy pace and the guide was very knowledgeable, sharing the history and culture of the area. And not to mention that he was very patient when we all stopped multiple times to take pictures! The tour sizes are never more than 20 people, in order to not spoil the terrain. In my case it was just 7 of us and one of them was a large family. It’s a beautiful experience walking amongst such vastness and definitely something i’d recommend for anyone to do! Beware that it can get very windy as it’s such an open space, so pack a light jacket just incase.
The Petrified Wood Just Blew My Mind!
Female Safety
If you look anywhere on the internet or ask anyone that has been here, they’ll tell you that it’s one of the safest places on earth. Don’t let the fact that it’s isolated put you off, it’s full of like-minded hikers and everyone that is visiting is there for the same purpose. You get a sense of community here and you’ll never feel alone if you don’t want to. I never experienced any form of harassment whatsoever, and walking alone at night felt completely safe. I also felt safe getting into taxis back to my lodge.
Sustainability Check + Giving Back
Checking our carbon footprint for our trip gives us a better understanding of our impact on the earth and how to invest in carbon offsetting projects based on reforestation and clean energy. Visualising it in the chart below puts our travel emissions into context and shows how much more effort we need to be putting in to travel more sustainably.
Here’s how you can follow these simple steps to give back after your trip:
1. Calculate your carbon footprint using a free online calculator
2. Offset your carbon footprint by visiting an online voluntary market through the purchase of carbon credits. Gold Standard is one of the leading certifiers of carbon credits.
